Full day at head of Rivers Inlet

July 8

Early morning wakeup call at 0600 for Kilbella River trip at high tide.  It was cool, low mist and clouds but calm, velvety water. The absence of rain motivated up to get mobile.  Saw one bear crossing a creek, eagles and birds out a plenty. Karolina was kneeling up on the bow to take a photo and when the skiff hit a log underwater she bounced overboard head first still in kneeling position.
Somehow she managed to plop her camera on board the dinghy while she was going over. We easily after assisted her back onboard but there was no continuing until we took her back to the sailboat for dry clothing, a hot drink and a warm up. I made coffee and oatmeal while she changed and after an hour we set off again. Continued on up river and a few tributaries, wary of all the deadfall below the surface. We stopped at a couple beaches which were muddy to look for  signs of bear , chewed grass, scratches on trees and footprints.

Then we headed in towards  Owakeeno  native village (spelled Wuikinuxv). Dave deposited us  3 women at the float plane dock to get permission to up the river to the lake. Turned out the village was over a km away from this dock and so it turned into an interesting and exciting adventure. Near the dock were some old prefab buildings and an old police car. The sign on one door said “First Aid- Come in and wait”. We would have waited a long time if we did. There were a lot of Salmon berries along the trail so the walk was long and leisurely.  Eventually some houses appeared and after walking by a few the first guy I spotted was carrying a weed whacker so I stopped him to ask where the band office was.  He flagged down the first vehicle and told another man to give us a lift there. The driver, Alfie turned out to be the CHR-Community Health Representative so we started chatting straight away.  He told us that a local guy had been mauled by a grizzly bear a few days ago in the very spot I was picking berries. The injured party is in critical condition in Victoria Hospital and as a result the conservation officers had brought dogs into the village to seek out the bear.

At the band office we chatted with the receptionist and met a council member named Rick Shaw who said the only way up the river was with an experience guide as the river was fast moving and many low spots and obstacles.  We discussed having him lead our skiff up river in his jet boat and then we would be able to cruise around the lake at our leisure and lift the motor to float back down.  We then met Jennifer, head of Fisheries. She took us to the cultural centre to show us some traditional handicrafts such as beaded  shawls, vests, and cedar weavings.  

Alfie offered to give us a tour of the village after lunch so we decided to head back to discuss options with Dave.  Rick Shaw was having none of us walk back with a grizz on the loose so kindly drove us back to the plane dock where Dave was wondering what took us so long.

Back to Irish Rose for lunch and back into the skiff for our village tour. Alfie took us to the new ‘Big House’ similar to a long house where totems on either side represent the different families from the village.
 The he took us to the treaty office where we met Alex and Dorothy. Dorothy explained some of the old photos to us and Alex discussed treaty negotiations and the talking stick with us.

He also gave us a tour of his office in which he had a poster size photo of his mother on the wall opposite his desk so she would always be looking over his shoulder.  Next Alfie took us by road up to the lake , passing many skinny Alder trees that were downed onto the road. He explained that the grizzlies knock them down so they can eat the leaves on the top.  

Wannock Lake was originally part of Rivers Inlet but a slide separated it a few centuries ago. It  still looks like part of the big inlet but it is fresh water. It is said there is still salt water on the bottom.

 After returning to the village, Alfie went into the band office to see if Rickshaw was busy or if he would show us his traditional cedar carvings. Rickshaw was still in a meeting so while we waited on the outside deck we saw 5 conservation officers walking up the road. They were in looking for the attacking grizzly bear but it was such a unique site in this remote village.  Soon locals were pouring out of the meeting for a coffee break unto the upper deck and since we had met a lot of them by now they were looking down and asking us how our tour went. One guy we hadn’t met yet seemed confused as to why everyone seemed to know us and asked “Who are you?”. I replied “ Just three women off a sailboat in the bay”.

Radioed Dave for a pick up when we had finished our tour and a group consensus decided to move on to Moses Inlet. Cruised down the inlet on bear watch for Karolina as she has never seen a bear. Voila, I spotted a black bear in some thick brush on the steep hillside.  We cruised alongshore in the sailboat and photographed the guy. Continued to the end of Ingrid Bay where we anchored easily near a grassy flat surrounded by snow scattered mountains.